Barbacan Fracia Riserva (2018) – This is everything one could ever want out of a top-tier Valtellina bottling. From a vertigo-inducingly steep parcel of Chiavannesca planted in the early 1920’s, the Fracia is aged in hefty chestnut botti for a full 2 years, followed by a further year in tank before bottling. The variety’s traditionally hefty tannins are filed down into something more fine grained and approachable. Freshly plucked candied rose petals meld into a core of sweet raspberry and strawberry fruit with hints of tobacco, anise and white pepper.