This month’s wine club takes us to the South American wine-producing nation of Chile! A thin strip of land nestled between imposing mountains and the Pacific Ocean, Chile has revitalized its wine industry in recent years, producing incredible Bordeaux blends and native varietals. To showcase Chile’s wine diversity, we chose a dry Riesling, a light Cinsault, and a bold Cabernet Sauvignon, all from small, family-run wineries.
Laberinto Arcillas Riesling 2022
This dry white wine, consisting of 100% Riesling, is sourced from a single organically grown parcel located in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. 20% of the grapes see 15 days of skin contact, and the rest are fermented as pure juice. This process doesn’t color the wine but does add texture and complexity. After spending eight months in clay amphora and stainless steel, the resulting wine is perfectly balanced with expressive notes of lime, honeysuckle, green apple, and wet stones. Master of Wine Tim Atkin scored this wine a remarkably impressive 98 points and ‘Chilean White Wine of the Year.’ 420 cases produced. Pair this wine with fresh Dungeness crab.
The Producer: Laberinto Wines
Laberinto is a boutique winery owned by vigneron Rafael Tirado and his family in the Andes Mountains on the shores of Lake Colbún. In 1990, Rafael was the first to plant vineyards in this region of the Maule Valley when he planted 18 hectares in the shape of a labyrinth (hence Laberinto). He says this forces him to slow down and think when he’s in the vineyard. The picturesque vineyard is situated on volcanic ash and granite overlooking the lake. It is truly one of Chile’s most unique winegrowing properties.
The Region: Lake Colbún (Maule Valley)
Lake Colbún is the largest reservoir in Chile, built in 1980 to dam the Maule River for hydroelectricity and agricultural use. The cooling effects from the lake, coupled with the 1900 ft of elevation in the foothills of the Andes, makes this area excellent for winegrowing. In the summer, the waters reach temperatures of upwards of 74 degrees, making it a popular area for water sports and tourism. While not many vineyards are planted in the Colbún D.O. today, this is certainly an area to watch in the coming years.
Sourced from a single vineyard of 60-year-old dry-farmed bush vines, this is a powerful, brambly Cinsault with notes of black plums, blackberries, sweet herbs, and fresh flowers. Medium-bodied with chalky, fine-grained tannins, the grapes for this wine are grown on sandy granite soil worked organically with horses. The wine retains freshness and acidity due to spending 10 months aging in concrete tanks. 277 cases produced. Pair this wine with grilled chicken or summer veggies.
The Producer: Dominio del Cuarzo
Felipe Ramirez founded Dominio del Cuarzo in 2019, producing small quantities of PaÃs and Cinsault wines from organically farmed, unirrigated old bush vines in Itata’s Nipas and Guarilihue vineyards. Raised in Santiago and influenced by his family’s love of nature, Felipe studied enology and viticulture, eventually becoming a winemaker. After further studies and work in France, he returned to Chile in 2007, working for Santa Rita and Bouchon, and later became the winemaker at Rose and Arrows in Oregon. Collaborating with Pedro Parra, he made his first Dominio del Cuarzo wines and now splits his time between Oregon and Chile, planning to continue producing wines in both regions.
The Region: Itata
The Itata Valley is one of Chile’s oldest wine regions, known for its historic vineyards and diverse terroir. Characterized by a Mediterranean climate, the region boasts a mix of granite and basalt soils, ideal for growing a variety of grape types, including PaÃs and Cinsault. Many vineyards in Itata feature old bush vines that are organically farmed and often unirrigated, resulting in wines with unique, expressive flavors. In recent years, Itata has gained recognition for its artisanal wine production, attracting winemakers who are dedicated to preserving traditional methods while exploring new, innovative approaches.
This wine, consisting of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Syrah, and 2% Alicante Bouchet, is sourced from a single vineyard in Loncomilla, a subregion of the Maule Valley. Aged in a mixture of concrete tanks and lightly toasted oak barrels, it has notes of black cherry, raspberry, sarsaparilla, cacao, and baking spices. Pair this Cabernet with traditional steak frites.
The Producer: Viña Maitia
David Marcel, a French winemaker, arrived in Chile at twenty-two after graduating from Montpelier. Initially working for large wineries, he fell in love with a Chileña and decided to settle in Chile. Two decades later, he began producing wines primarily from PaÃs and Carignan, sourced from Chile’s prized heritage old vines. Known for his generosity and advocacy, David is a leading voice for Viña Maitia and supports artisan winemakers in Chile. His wines are understated, highly drinkable, and offer great value.
The Region: Maule Valley
The Maule Valley, one of Chile’s oldest and largest wine regions, is renowned for its rich viticultural history and diverse terroir. Located south of Santiago, it enjoys a Mediterranean climate with significant temperature variations between day and night, which contributes to the development of complex flavors in the grapes. The region’s soils range from volcanic ash to clay and loam, ideal for cultivating a variety of grape varieties, particularly old-vine Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, and PaÃs. Maule Valley is celebrated for its commitment to sustainable and organic farming practices, producing high-quality wines that reflect the heritage and innovation of Chilean winemaking.
