For this month’s wine club selection, we have three fantastic wines from Sicily. Wines from this rugged island have a unique mineral quality from towering Mt. Etna.
This white wine is bright and fresh, bursting with sunshine, sea spray, and Sicilian lemons. Medium-bodied and crisp, it has notes of white peaches, orchard fruits, and honey on the palate. An intriguing blend of Inzolia, Grecanico, and Moscato. Pair this Mediterranean white with fried seafood.
The Producer: Riofavara
Riofavara is located on the southern tip of the island of Sicily, southwest of the town of Noto. The winery was founded in 1920 by the Padova family, but they did not start bottling their own wine until 1993. Today, Massimo Padova, along with his wife, sister, and cousin oversee operations. This young team of winemakers has worked tirelessly to build a new production facility and improve farming and winemaking techniques, leading to a pure expression of Sicilian terroir. The team is so dedicated to organic farming practices that while in the process of certifying their organic practices, they found the certification agency too lax and fired them. They established their own more stringent organic standards and are now happy to provide proof of their organic status from a group called ASCA, a small and rigorous group of inspectors.
The Region: Noto Valley
The Noto Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage site in southeastern Sicily. It boasts breathtaking Baroque architecture that was rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in 1693. Adding to its allure is the presence of the ancient Greek city of Syracuse. Renowned for its wine production, particularly of red Nero d’Avola and Frappato grapes, this region benefits from warm Scirocco winds and abundant sunshine, yielding full-bodied, ripe Nero d’Avola wines alongside fresh and fruity Frappato varieties, as well as some white wines.
This pretty red wine is made with 100% Frappato, a local red variety. Believed to be a cross between Sangiovese and an unknown red grape, Frappato produces beautiful medium-bodied fruit forward red wines. Remarkably fragrant and agile, this wine boasts notes of lavender, wild strawberry, and sour cherry. Pair this food friendly red with Pasta alla Norma or seared tuna steaks.
The Producer: Portelli
The Portelli family, now led by Alessandro and Salvatore, represents five generations of winemaking mastery, with roots tracing back to 1863. Their estate, a pioneer in the area, showcases wines characterized by charm, luscious fruit, and structural integrity. Emphasizing meticulous maceration and extraction techniques, the Portellis produce wines of both elegance and refinement, where even the typically robust Nero d’Avola, locally known as Calabrese, displays a newfound gracefulness in Vittoria’s terroir, where Frappato truly shines.
The Region: Vittoria
Vittoria, an Italian wine DOC situated in southern Sicily around the town of Vittoria, was established in 2005. While initially renowned for its red and white wines, the spotlight shifted to Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s first DOCG, stealing attention from Vittoria’s red wines. Crafted from Nero d’Avola and Frappato grapes, Cerasuolo di Vittoria wines are vibrant cherry-colored reds, whereas Vittoria Rosso shares the same blend under slightly less stringent production conditions, allowing for higher yields and lower alcohol content.
Named after the Demon of Lust from the Book of Tobias (an ancient Hebrew text), this 100% Nero d’Avola wine is rich, dark, and spicy. It is aged in neutral oak, which adds little oak flavor but helps soften the tannins. Dark garnet in color, it has notes of ripe plums, garrigue, black pepper, ripe black cherry, and leather. A touch of licorice and elegant tannins rounds out the finish. Pair this Syrah-like wine with grilled beef or oxtail soup.
The Producer: Poggio Anima
Poggio Anima, a collaborative effort between Riccardo Campinoti of Le Ragnaie in Montalcino and Ronnie Sanders of Vine Street Imports, aims to produce authentic wines that reflect their terroir and grape variety. Instead of sourcing bulk wines, they cultivate long-standing relationships with esteemed growers across Italy. White wines bear names of religious archangels, while reds are named after fallen angels, each reflecting the persona of the grape, region, or style. These wines, crafted from single-vineyard, indigenous grapes, blend modern packaging with old-world winemaking practices, embodying a commitment to authenticity and tradition.
The Region: Caltanissetta
Caltanissetta province is located in central Sicily. Here, an ancient vineyard stands at around 1,600 feet above sea level. This ancient site, with origins dating back to the 19th century BCE, benefits from its elevated altitude and distance from the sea, creating ideal conditions for ripening Nero d’Avola grapes. Employing a south-facing orientation and vertical trellis system on sandy and clay-rich soils, the vineyard utilizes guyot pruning methods to nurture its vines, continuing a legacy of viticultural tradition and expertise.
