Sylvain Morey Chassagne Montrachet Vieilles Vignes Rouge (2021)

Sylvain retains 30% whole clusters for the vinification, which lasts 3 weeks; he employs pump-overs rather than punch-downs, preferring a thorough, slow, gentle extraction that preserves lift. Chassagne’s unabashed soil-driven nature shines through clearly but elegantly in this wine; one would have to spend much more in the Côte de Nuits to find something even approaching it