Nicolas Jay L’Ensemble Pinot Noir (2021) – A bright, magenta color with pinkish red edges shows intensity, youthfulness and concentration. Aroma sequences immediately leap from the glass with freshness and vigor. There are red berries, freshly cut straw, rhubard and elegantly perfumed red flowers. A blood orange zest inermixes with herbes de provence, cranberries, and tigh-grained French barrique. The structure of the wine is medium-plus at first, but as the wine unfolds in the mid-palate it begins to tighten and constrict. Acid levels are earnest in this wine, but there is a broad density that seems to take a combative stance to its brightness as the finish expands into chalky minerality, tangerine spice and an underlayment of crushed river rock. An argument can be made that this is the most impressive bottling that Jean-Nicolas Méo has achieved yet.
