Les Matheny Arbois Poulsard (2020) – This lifted, expressive Poulsard displays enchanting sandalwood aromas, bursting with black cherry and freshly turned earth, again toeing the line of appropriate volatile acidity in the most appealing possible fashion. The wine’s unabashedly dense structure – the result of a 3-week cuvaison – promises great rewards for those willing to wait a few years, though it will undoubtedly dazzle right now, especially at the table.