Aligoté has long been dismissed as Burgundy’s other white grape. No one thinks “Aligoté” when they hear “white Burgundy,” and that’s no coincidence. In 1937, the powers that be in France restricted Aligoté grown in the Côte d’Or to the generic Bourgogne Aligoté appellation, leaving more prestigious village designations for the region’s golden child, Chardonnay, and its red counterpart, Pinot Noir. As a result, Burgundian vignerons largely turned away from Aligoté, planting it solely in lesser vineyard sites with an emphasis on quantity over quality. That’s all started to change in recent years, however, as open-minded vignerons such as Romain Taupenot are breathing new life into this underdog grape variety. Romain’s family has been making wine in Burgundy since the 17th century, and he’s the 9th generation to take the helm of the estate. He takes a hands-off approach in the cellar, sometimes referring to himself as a “lazy winemaker.” Rather, he prefers to get his hands dirty working diligently in the vineyards, letting the fruits of his labor to evolve naturally so the wines can speak for themselves. The stellar terroir—Romain’s Aligoté parcels are in Morey-Saint-Denis and Auxey-Duresses— in combination with his gentle hand in the cellar result in an approachable, elegant, and complex wine that would give many “white Burgundies”a run for their money. A bouquet of orchard blossoms and buttery brioche opens to lemon curd and almond notes on the palate, finishing with a pleasant creaminess backed by chiseled acidity.
