The Roûmieu-Lacoste is a ravishing beast, its decadent sweetness matched only by its refreshing acidity. The excellent balance and dazzling complexity make it a thrill to drink now and a sure thing for the cellar. Don’t underestimate the number of occasions this beauty will serve you. It is a habit-forming apéritif with or without foie gras. It marries better with cheeses than most reds, and the French are known to admire it with Sunday’s roast chicken. Try it with shucked oysters for the most unlikely of revelations. And with dessert? Yes. As dessert? Yes.