Notes from the Importer: A bottle that empties so quickly you’re surprised to see the bottom. The first time Kermit tasted this Pigato, the bottle was gone before the fish course arrived. He then ordered a second bottle—the ultimate compliment. Pigato is a genetic variation of Vermentino that developed around the 18th century and was probably named for its pighe—“freckles” in the local dialect, referring to its spotty skin. Today the two varieties are often confused because they are frequently planted together and cross-pollinate in the vineyards, but the difference is evident when they are kept separate, as at Punta Crena. In order to demonstrate this distinction scientifically the Ruffinos are planning to provide cuttings of their own vines to a local university for comparative genetic testing.
